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Socalmountains.com :: Forums :: GENERAL DISCUSSION
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driveway replacement or repair

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Juliann
Sun Jul 05 2020, 02:06PM Email Thread Print View

Registered Member #97
Joined: Sun Oct 29 2006, 04:32PM
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Posts: 946
We need to either repair our driveway or completely redo it in upper Moonridge. It is presently asphalt with too many cracks in it, was originally laid in 2002. Husband would like to have it torn out and replace it with a concrete driveway. I'm leaning towards tearing it out and redo again in asphalt. I've seen so many cement driveways with long cracks running through them. Would like to hear opinions on cement vs. asphalt... And also hear of referrals of a good company to do the work. Also, has anyone, when getting a concrete driveway, had any heating system installed? Probably a ton of money to do that : (
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Cap'n Crunch
Mon Jul 06 2020, 07:03AM

Registered Member #12800
Joined: Tue Jan 05 2016, 09:02PM
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Posts: 340
Juliann,
We went through the same decision process a couple of years ago and opted for concrete. I was afraid that concrete might be slippery in snowy conditions but that has not been the case. In fact, concrete makes the snow removal much easier. Asphalt looks more rustic, but to overcome that we used a dark gray stain and are very pleased with the result. The contractor we used was Erickson Construction. Our driveway has a complicated sloping transition to the road so I paid close attention as to how they formed everything. The slab is very thick and they used plenty of steel so I'm not worried about cracking. I'll PM our address so you can check it out.

Tim (KE6PMA)
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Dave™
Mon Jul 06 2020, 09:02AM

It's been 50 years and counting...
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Joined: Sat Oct 14 2006, 12:59PM
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Posts: 1603
Juliann,
I recommend you give Sam Randazzo a call at 909-312-1844. Known him for years and he's a quality guy and knows the concrete business well.

"A sad day is seeing Big Bear in your rear view mirror" - @llen


" A billion here, a billion there, and pretty soon you're talking real money" -attributed to Everett Dirksen


"If God wanted us to vote, He should have provided candidates." - The Kingston Trio
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doo·hick·ey
Mon Jul 06 2020, 10:14AM

Registered Member #13841
Joined: Sat Jan 14 2017, 11:47PM
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Posts: 315
Here's my take on the subject, gonna be long, but some good key points.

Our driveway is about 1/4 mile to the main road, we may be going with crushed asphalt and rolled to compact flat. Possibly slurry afterwards. A properly done concrete drive will outlast a normal asphalt pour, 2-4 times.

Do you have many heavy trucks that will need access? UPS, Sparkletts, electrical poles or tree trimming a bucket truck would need to be on? 6" thick is expensive vs 5" or gawd forbid 4".

Following the curing directions the contractor gives is a must. Hose down and/or keep covered stuff. Ambient temp for the cure dictates that.

Control saw cuts or tooling (a trowel groove tool) must be done before too long. At 1/4 depth of the slab thickness. This 'controls' the expansion/shrinkage at temps and where the cracks 'could' occur. 8-12 foot apart, opt for middle or less.

Rebar should be used for anything greater than 4" thick, but I use it in even in little pads, not the steel mesh stuff. ~12" cross sections.

I have always just called in the concrete pumper truck and done the labor myself (with a helper or two)

I've had my avatar since Jan 14 2017, before covid-19!
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Juliann
Mon Jul 06 2020, 10:21AM

Registered Member #97
Joined: Sun Oct 29 2006, 04:32PM
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Posts: 946
Dave™ wrote ...

Juliann,
I recommend you give Sam Randazzo a call at 909-312-1844. Known him for years and he's a quality guy and knows the concrete business well.


Thank you, Dave!
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Juliann
Mon Jul 06 2020, 10:25AM

Registered Member #97
Joined: Sun Oct 29 2006, 04:32PM
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Posts: 946
doo·hick·ey wrote ...

Here's my take on the subject, gonna be long, but some good key points.

Our driveway is about 1/4 mile to the main road, we may be going with crushed asphalt and rolled to compact flat. Possibly slurry afterwards. A properly done concrete drive will outlast a normal asphalt pour, 2-4 times.

Do you have many heavy trucks that will need access? UPS, Sparkletts, electrical poles or tree trimming a bucket truck would need to be on? 6" thick is expensive vs 5" or gawd forbid 4".

Following the curing directions the contractor gives is a must. Hose down and/or keep covered stuff. Ambient temp for the cure dictates that.

Control saw cuts or tooling (a trowel groove tool) must be done before too long. At 1/4 depth of the slab thickness. This 'controls' the expansion/shrinkage at temps and where the cracks 'could' occur. 8-12 foot apart, opt for middle or less.

Rebar should be used for anything greater than 4" thick, but I use it in even in little pads, not the steel mesh stuff. ~12" cross sections.

I have always just called in the concrete pumper truck and done the labor myself (with a helper or two)


Thank you for all this info. This will all help as we're making our decisions. I'll be having my husband read this, for sure.... Our driveway is short and pretty much only our cars are ever on it, so no problems . We'll be getting quotes from the contractors soon.
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doo·hick·ey
Mon Jul 06 2020, 10:27AM

Registered Member #13841
Joined: Sat Jan 14 2017, 11:47PM
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Posts: 315
Have fun and good luck!

I've had my avatar since Jan 14 2017, before covid-19!
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Juliann
Mon Jul 06 2020, 10:28AM

Registered Member #97
Joined: Sun Oct 29 2006, 04:32PM
:
Posts: 946
Cap'n Crunch wrote ...

Juliann,
We went through the same decision process a couple of years ago and opted for concrete. I was afraid that concrete might be slippery in snowy conditions but that has not been the case. In fact, concrete makes the snow removal much easier. Asphalt looks more rustic, but to overcome that we used a dark gray stain and are very pleased with the result. The contractor we used was Erickson Construction. Our driveway has a complicated sloping transition to the road so I paid close attention as to how they formed everything. The slab is very thick and they used plenty of steel so I'm not worried about cracking. I'll PM our address so you can check it out.



Thanks, Cap'n Crunch!
Great help from everyone : ) Interesting that all three responses are going for concrete.... Anyone out there ever redo with just asphalt?
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doo·hick·ey
Mon Jul 06 2020, 11:12AM

Registered Member #13841
Joined: Sat Jan 14 2017, 11:47PM
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Posts: 315
I did an asphalt redo (patch) when I dug up the driveway to the street and replaced the water main line (~20 foot). Funny, Arizona Pipeline was replacing the gas line on our street, long ago (Anita Ave). Got to chatting w/them and for a c-note or something, they used their extra, still steaming asphalt and rolled it over in half hour! Lunchtime side job, L0L.

Cement w/proper thickness, control cuts & rebar can last well over 20 years.

I've had my avatar since Jan 14 2017, before covid-19!
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Skyline Drive
Mon Jul 06 2020, 11:25AM

Registered Member #191
Joined: Tue Dec 05 2006, 06:43AM
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Posts: 3073
I do not know who Sam is Al Randazzo been around since the early 70s, Burton Ready Mix joke is that it is guaranteed to crack. Make sure they use steel 3/8 minimum rebar about 16 inches on center both ways, your still going to need an asphalt apron where it meets the street, kind of a break away so if the plow catches it you don’t loose a chunk of your driveway. The concrete can also not go past your property line, the city will want an encroachment permit for the apron, Also need to make sure the driveway not to steep the city has a max slope of say 10%. Porter for the asphalt maybe it could be just capped

Millennia’s sorry to tell you that there is no Santa Clause, no Easter Bunny, No Tooth Fairy, Have a great day
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Arrowbear Rider
Aug 14 : 10:15am
I've also used the stucco screens to make cages around potted plants like tomatoes, by taking two 8' pieces & making a square "U" shape, then they fit together to make a rectangle box, with the whole plant pot & all in the cage, that can be zipped tied. When I need to get at the plant I cut the zip ties (cheap Harbor Freight) & remove the top "U" & when done replace the zip ties with new ones; $1.99 with coupon.

The boxes kept all animals out of my produce, including deer.

Arrowbear Rider
Aug 14 : 10:06am
AR, Thanks for the tip, I'll look at the hardware cloth, I've had success building cages around bulbs using stucco screen, too tight for them to get through, I just leave a hole for the stem to come through & bury the whole thing.

2 years ago one was eating the Tulip flowers just before blooming, had to cove each plant with little chicken wire cages; that's when I started getting pi$$ed & eliminating the worst offenders.

It varies year to year depending on other food sources, but man one of them knows me & avoids all traps.

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Aug 14 : 09:36am
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A wet market is just a market in which they may butcher the animal there instead of selling meats that were butchered prior to the sale or display. Most wet markets do not trade in exotic animals and stick to your traditional meats. Though, keep in mind, in some parts of the world, things like ostrich and camel are considered normal to eat.

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